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Delhi, India |
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Your first impression of Delhi is unlikely to be
a good one, particularly if it's also your first impression of
India. You'll most likely notice the pollution, the crowds, the
smell, the noise and the ceaseless hassles long before you notice
the city's charms. But it's worth persevering as the history of this
city is fascinating, and it's all around you: the bazaars of
Paharganj are a wonderful introduction to India's backpacker trail;
the city's monuments are among the most architectuarally striking in
the country; and the food here is great.
Delhi is the capital of India, and it's also the travel hub of
northern India. It's an excellent base for visiting Agra and the Taj
Mahal, and the Rajasthani colour of Jaipur is less than five hours
away. If you're heading north to the Himalaya or east to the ghats
of Varanasi, you'll probably pass through Delhi. So you might as
well grit your teeth, hold your breath and dive on in..
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Agra
The Taj Mahal, described as the most extravagant monument ever built
for love, has become the de facto tourist emblem of India. This
poignant Moghul mausoleum was constructed by Emperor Shah Jahan in
memory of his second wife Mumtaz Mahal, whose death in childbirth in
1631 left the emperor so heartbroken that his hair is said to have
turned grey overnight. Construction of the Taj began in the same
year and was not completed until 1653.
The emperor's hair may have gone shabby but his eye for detail
apparently remained acute - the near-perfection of the Taj's
architecture does not diminish upon closer inspection; it merely
comes into sharper focus. Semiprecious stones were laid into the
marble in elaborate designs through a process called pietra dura. If
you're planning to check out this marvel, don't forget that it's
closed on Friday to all non-Muslims.
The city's other major attraction is the massive red sandstone Agra
Fort, also on the bank of the Yamuna River. The auricular fort's
colossal double walls rise over 20m (65ft) in height and measure
2.5km (1.55mi) in circumference. They are encircled by a fetid moat
and contain a maze of superb halls, mosques, chambers and gardens
which form a small city within a city. Unfortunately not all
buildings are open to visitors, including the white marble Pearl
Mosque, regarded by some as the most beautiful mosque in India.
Other worthwhile Moghul gems include the Itimad-ud-daulah, many of
whose design elements were used in the construction of the Taj, and
Akbar's Mausoleum at Sikandra which blends Islamic, Hindu, Buddhist,
Jain and Christian motifs, much like the syncretic religious
philosophy Akbar developed attempted to do.
Agra is near enough to Delhi - 200km (125mi) - to be done as a day
trip. It's on the major tourist circuit so you can take your pick of
transport; plane, bus, or train. |
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