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This quiet, genial, dusty village in northern
Madhya Pradesh is awash with temples. Temples for everything - sun
gods, sacred bulls and, more memorably and most prominently, sex.
The erotic possibilities suggested by the stone figures in the
numerous temples have contributed to Khajuraho's international fame.
Another prime feature of the temple craftmanship is that they are
liberally embellished with some of the finest handiwork of the
Chandela period, a dynasty which survived for five centuries before
falling to the onslaught of Islam. Visitors are also drawn to a
dance festival, celebrated in March, which attracts some of the best
classical dancers in the country - the floodlit temples provide a
spectacular backdrop during the event.
The largest and most important temples are in the attractively
landscaped Western Group. Externally, the temples consist of
curvilinear towers with clusters of lesser turrets clinging to them,
suggestive of rising mountain peaks (ahem) converging round a great
central peak. Round the exterior walls are two, sometimes three,
superimposed rows of gods, goddesses, kings and heroes, courtesans,
couples in carnal embrace and, in some cases, friezes depicting
various forms of bestiality. The interiors are just as ornate, with
an open portico leading into a main hall, then a vestibule beyond
which is an inner sanctum containing the free-standing cult image.
In fact, the sculpture and architecture blend so perfectly that each
building appears to have been conceived by a single - and highly
sexed - mastermind.
Getting to Khajuraho can be a major problem. It's really on the road
to nowhere and involves long bus trips over small country roads.
Flying is a better option: Indian Airlines have a daily Delhi-Agra-Khajuraho-Varanasi
flight, but it's usually booked solid so book as far in advance as
possible. Buses run from Agra, Ghansi, and Jhansi, and if going by
rail you'll need to get off at Jhansi and continue by bus to
Khajuraho. |
India
