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The 'summer capital' of British India sprawls
along a crescent-shaped ridge at an altitude of over 2100m (6890ft)
in southern Himachal Pradesh. This was the most important hill
station in India before Independence, and the social life here in
the summer months when the Brits came to escape the torrid heat of
the plains was legendary - balls, bridge parties and parades went
hand in hand with gossip, intrigue and romance. Today, the officers,
administrators and lah-di-dah ladies of the Raj have been replaced
by throngs of holidaymakers, but echoes of Shimla's British past
remain strong. The famous main street, The Mall, still runs along
the crest of the ridge and is lined with stately English-looking
houses. Christ Church, Gorton Castle and the fortress-like former
Viceroyal Lodge reinforce the English flavour.
When you've done the obligatory stroll along The Mall dreaming of
Kipling, Burton and Merchant-Ivory, it's worth exploring the narrow
streets which fall steeply away from the ridge to colourful local
bazaars. There's also an interesting walk to Jakhu Temple, dedicated
to the monkey god Hanuman. It's located near the highest point of
the ridge and offers fine views of the town, surrounding valley and
snow-capped peaks. Other scenic spots nearby include the 70m (230ft)
high Chadwick Falls, the picnic spot of Prospect Hill, and
Wildflower Hall - the site of the former mansion of Lord
'Your-Country-Needs-You' Kitchener. The ski resort of Kufri is just
15km (10m) east, although snowfalls have been so paltry recently
that there are plans to suspend tourist operations. If there is
snow, the slopes are suitable for beginners and anyone with a decent
plastic bag and a thick pair of trousers. Snow is most likely
between January and February.
Shimla is not as well connected by air as other destinations in the
Himalayas althouth there are a couple of companies that will fly you
out. The lack of air power is more than compensated by the number of
trains and buses. Three types of bus - public, private, and those
from the Himachal Pradesh Tourist Development Company (HPTDC) -
connect Shimla to Delhi, and they run pretty much every day.
Shimla's so-called toy train is still big enough to get you to Kalka
in the north, after which you can change to the relatively large and
comfortable New Delhi Queen which runs on down into New Delhi. |
India
