Langtang region is a popular destination for climbing snow peaks and spectacular panoramic views of mountains in Nepal and Tibet . Easy access to the region and availability of several snow peaks scattered around for acclimatization make this region an ideal destination for novice as well as experienced climbers. Naya Kanga is an attractive peak rising to the west of the Ganja La (5,122m). Ascending to Ganja La or the summit of Naya Kanga offer the spectacular panoramic views of mountains in Nepal and Tibet including Langshisa Ri (6,370m), Pemthang Ri (6,836m), Shisapangma (8,046m), Langtang Lirung (7,425m), Pemthang Kapro Ri (6,830m) and Langtang II (6,571m). The normal route of ascent to Naya Kanga is via the north - East Ridge over a line on ice and snow. We follow the route of Langtang trek to Kyangjin (3,749m) for the ascent of Naya Kanga. To the north above Kangjin, there are several hills that provide both the magnificent views and the acclimatization. North - east of Kyangjin Ri (4,700m), there are two peaks; Yala Peak (5, 500m) and Tsergo Peak (5,749m) that provide good climbing for acclimatization but require no permit.
North - East Face & North Ridge
Crossing the Langtang Khola below Kyangjin, we climb steeply along the ridge through a forest of rhododendron and juniper. Finally climbing more gently, we arrive at yak pastures of Ngegang at about 4000m. We continue following the trail to Ganja La through moraine climbing steeply. We leave Ganja La trail to climb steeply up yet more moraines to reach the eastern end of the glacier shelf beneath the north - east face of Naya Kanga. We set up the high camp here for the ascent. We cross the glacier shelf to the foot of a shallow color heading to the north ridge. We climb the color to the notch and the base of the ridge. Then we turn to the ice nose on the left, which is only the technical section on the climb. Now the ridge widens and leads to a small col. on the east - west summit ridge and the summit is only 30m higher to the right. The climb near the summit should be done carefully. Normally, the ascent takes 5 - 7 hours from the high camp. For the return trek, we may follow Ganja La - Helambu route or take the same route back to Dhunche |
Nepal
