In the far west of
Tibet is Mt Kailash, the most sacred mountain in Asia, which is
venerated by Buddhists, Hindus, Jains and the ancient Bon religion
of Tibet. From it flow four great rivers – the Karnali, the Indus,
the Sutlej and the Brahmaputra – which drain the vast Tibetan
Plateau. It is an important site for pilgrims who
make a 53km circuit, or kora, of the mountain. This
circumambulation, clockwise for Buddhists and Hindus and
anti-clockwise for Bon followers, is said to erase the sins of a
lifetime. The mountain itself is 6714m high and with its four sheer
walls and snow capped peak is an awe-inspiring sight.
Only 30km from Mt Kailash is another important pilgrimage site, the
beautiful and serene Lake Manasarovar. According to mythology it was
formed in the mind of Brahma, and Indian and Tibetan pilgrims can
also be seen circumambulating this lake, a distance of 90km.
Considering the significance of Mt. Kailash, you will see untold
number of religious and ritualistic sites along this difficult 50
kms trek. Amid views of plains, rivers, glaciers, and the majestic
mountains of Nepal, Tibet and India, you will pass unending rows of
prayer flags, lucky chortens, several prostrations points, and
monasteries.
Along the way are also places that are steeped in legend. The sky
burial site of the 84 Mahasiddhas was once used only for lamas and
monks. Sky burials are traditional ceremonies in which the corpse is
left in the open for vultures to consume; the belief is that the
body is thus returned to the sky. Although there may be sky burials
going on while you are at Mt. Kailash, don’t venture into the area
and disturb the proceedings. They are extremely private and
foreigner with cameras are not welcome.
Lake Mansarovar
The Hindus believe that to plunge into the freezing cold waters of
the Lake Manasarovar and walk around its circumference is to erase a
whole lifetime of sins. Tibetans believe that they can negate their
wrongdoings merely through walking.
To the Tibetans, this lake they call “ Victorious” is the holiest in
the land, believed to be where the gods washed Buddha’s mother
before she gave birth. According to the Hindus, Brahma created the
lake for his sons to bathe in while they medicated on Mt. Kailash.
Whether Indian pilgrim, Tibetan pilgrim or western traveler, one can
see Lake Mansarovar’s holy origins manifested in its breathtaking
beauty. It’s ringed by mountain peaks and filled with clear,
bright-blue waters that look just a breath away from the sky. The
lake was once surrounded by eight monasteries, which symbolized the
eight points of the wheel of Dharma, but red guards destroyed most
of them during the cultural revolution. Restoration is in the works.
Mansarovar is home to many other Buddhist mythological landmarks, as
well. There’s the Memmo Nanyi, a peak where the goddess of wisdom
lives. The lake also represents the sun or lightness, while its
smaller neighbor , lake Rakshas Tal, is its complementary moon or
darkness. According to to Tibetans, it’s a good omen when the waters
of Mansarovar flow into the Rakshas Tal, and while the former’s
waters are healing, Rakshas Tal’s are poisonous.
Most travelers explore the lake during day hikes from Chiu
Monastery, which lies on the northwest corner of Mansarovar. The
Monastery overlooks the lake from a hilltop, the views from the roof
are tremendeous. There is also a cave at the monastery that is
considered one of Guru Rimpoche’s meditation sites.
Only a handful of zealous travelers undergo the four to five day
kora around Lake Mansarovar , due to its challenging terrain. It
basically goes along the circumference of the lake, diverging
slightly at the northern shore to avert the marshes. Beginning at
Chiu Monastery, the kora moves in a clockwise direction, of course.
On the trek you will see mountain views, hot springs, mani stones,
geysers, glaciers, caves, cliffs, ritual bathing sites and several
monasteries.
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